How to Hang Curtains: A Step-by-Step Guide (With or Without Drilling)

To hang curtains, mount brackets into the wall at the right height, attach the rod, and hang the panels. The full process should take around 30 to 60 minutes per window and requires a drill, a level, and wall anchors if you're not going into studs.

If drilling isn't an option – whether you're renting or just prefer not to put holes in the walls – adhesive hooks, tension rods, and adhesive curtain tracks are all reliable alternatives. The right one depends mostly on how heavy your curtain panels are. This article will guide you through the steps of hanging curtains in detail, whether you are going to drill into the wall or not.

What You'll Need Before You Start Hanging Your Curtains

Before you start, go through this quick checklist of things you’ll need to hang your curtains:

For the Drill Method:

• Curtains

• Curtain rod and brackets

• Drill and appropriate drill bits

• Wall anchors (if you're not drilling into studs)

• Screwdriver

• Level or spirit level

• Tape measure

• Pencil

• Painter's tape (optional, but useful for marking)

For No-Drill Methods:

• Curtains

• Tension rod, adhesive hooks, or adhesive curtain track

• Tape measure

• Pencil

• Clean, dry cloth to prep the surface for adhesive

Before you buy a rod or panels, make sure you have your curtain measurements ready. Knowing your exact window width and the drop you need tells you what rod length to get and prevents a second trip to the store.

How to Hang Curtains With Drilling

Step 1: Measure and Mark the Rod Position

The height of the rod matters more than most people expect. A rod mounted too close to the top of the window frame makes the window look smaller and the ceiling feel lower. Placing it higher – 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) above the frame, or even closer to the ceiling in rooms with high ceilings – draws the eye upward and makes the whole room feel more spacious.

Width is just as important. Extend the rod 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) beyond each side of the window frame. This lets the curtain panels stack off the glass when pulled open, so they don't block light or make the window look narrower than it is. Once you're happy with the position, mark it lightly with a pencil.

Step 2: Measure and Mark the Bracket Positions

Next, measure out where each bracket needs to go. Brackets are typically placed 3 to 4 inches (7 to 10 cm) in from each end of the rod. For rods wider than 60 inches (150 cm), add a center support bracket, because without it, the rod will bow in the middle under the weight of the panels.

Use a level to confirm that both bracket positions sit at exactly the same height. A strip of painter's tape along the wall at rod height can help you stay aligned while you mark the screw holes. This is also a good moment to check you're not placing the brackets in an awkward spot – a wall seam, a tile grout line, or close to a corner can all cause issues when drilling.

Step 3: Install the Brackets

Drill a small pilot hole at each marked point before driving in the screws. It makes the screw easier to seat and reduces the chance of cracking paint or plaster. If you're not hitting a wall stud, use wall anchors – they're essential for keeping the bracket secure once the curtains are hanging, especially with heavier panels. Once the brackets are screwed in, give each one a firm tug to check it's stable. If a bracket feels loose, add a larger anchor before moving on.

Step 4: Attach the Rod and Hang the Panels

Thread the curtain panels onto the rod before placing it on the brackets. If your panels use rings, hook them onto the rod at even spacing – bunching them at one end and spreading them later tends to leave gaps. Slide the rod into the bracket arms and secure the end caps or finials.

Step back and check that the rod looks centered over the window and sits level. Adjustments are much easier to make now than after you've tightened everything down.

Step 5: Adjust for a Clean Look

Spread the panels evenly across the rod, then check the drop. The hem should either skim the floor (roughly half an inch or about 1 cm of clearance), break slightly at the bottom, or pool. Each option creates a different feel, and the right choice depends on the room and the look you want to create.

Smooth out each panel with your hands to release any fold lines from packaging. For panels that have been stored or shipped folded, a light steam gets them hanging flat faster.

How to Hang Curtains Without Drilling (Different Methods)

Adhesive Hooks and Strips

Adhesive hooks are the most commonly used no-drill solution, particularly in rentals. You press them onto the wall, let the adhesive cure for 24 to 72 hours (though it’s always recommended to check the manufacturer’s instructions), then hang a lightweight rod or individual curtain rings from each hook.

The main constraint is weight. Adhesive hooks hold up reliably with light to medium-weight panels, such as sheers, linen blends, and lighter cotton curtains. Heavy blackout panels or thermal curtains put more stress on the adhesive bond, especially in humid rooms where the bond weakens faster.

Surface preparation makes a real difference. Adhesive hooks bond best to smooth, clean, painted drywall. Textured walls, wallpaper, or relatively fresh paint all reduce how well they hold.

Tension Rods

Tension rods work by pressing outward against two parallel surfaces – typically the inside of a window recess. Nothing attaches to the wall, which makes them completely damage-free.

They're well suited to lightweight curtains hung inside the window frame: sheers, café curtains, light cotton panels. Because they rely on outward pressure to stay in place, they're not stable across wide spans or with heavier fabrics. If the rod keeps slipping or bowing in the middle, the curtain is too heavy for this method.

Adhesive Curtain Tracks

Adhesive curtain tracks can provide a cleaner, more integrated-looking result than hook-based systems. Depending on the specific track and adhesive, some can support medium-weight curtains, but many common adhesive tracks are rated for only around 10 to 12 lbs (5 kg). Higher capacities are available for reinforced systems and should be verified against the manufacturer’s specifications and installation requirements.

Installation of adhesive curtain tracks is straightforward: clean the surface thoroughly, press the track firmly in place, and let the adhesive cure completely before hanging anything. Adhesive tracks are more likely to fail when weight is added before the bond has fully set or when they're installed on a surface that wasn't properly cleaned first.

When No-Drill Methods Work (and When They Don't)

No-drill options are a practical choice for lightweight curtains, renters, or temporary setups. Where they tend to fall short:

• Heavy blackout, thermal, or velvet panels

• Wide windows over 60 inches (150 cm), where a rod needs center support

• Humid rooms like bathrooms, where adhesive loses its bond faster

• Textured or uneven walls where adhesive can't create a flat seal

If your curtains are heavy or the window is wide, drilling is the more reliable option.

Conclusion: Getting Your Curtains Up the Right Way

Whether you're drilling into the wall or working around it, the steps that matter most are the same: measure carefully, settle on the right height before you commit to anything, and make sure whatever's holding the rod up is actually secure.

Rod placement, both how high it sits above the window and how far it extends on either side, shapes how the room looks more than the curtains themselves. Get that right first, and everything else is straightforward. For the no-drill route, the method that holds up comes down almost entirely to how heavy your panels are. Start there, and the choice usually becomes much easier.